Sunday, August 10, 2008

NY Comes to L.A....almost


I've long listed The Bowery as one of my favorite restaurants in L.A. Its NY-feel reminds me of my other favorite restaurant 3000 miles away, Schillers. Both share similar, pared down menus and a dim, low lit ambiance. They somehow make you feel cool, just being there. So when I heard the owners had opened a new joint just down the road, I had to check it out.

Delancey is first and foremost an Italian restaurant, and I admit that's not usually my first choice when it comes to dining out. I can make pasta at home, thank you, and for a fraction of the price. But if Italian's what you want, Delancey's surely delivers. We started with the egglant caponata - I'm not that familiar with eggplant, but whatever they've done with it here, I'm sold. For our entrees we chose bolognese w/rigatoni and number 6 pizza w/tomato, fontina, sausage and roasted peppers. While the pasta was ho-hum (again, I could make this at home), the pizza was delicious. The crust was crisp, the sauce was plentiful and the flavors mixed nicely. Overall, I was pretty pleased, though I can't say I'm dying to go back. The ambiance was adequate, though not quite as hip as The Bowery. And I wish the restaurant had been more full - for a Thursday night, it seemed especially quiet. On a side note, the beer selection was impressive.

All in all, I think big brother Bowery has this one beat. But if you're in the mood for Italian, I'd say this modestly-priced, relatively cool eatery should do you right.

Delancey
http://www.delanceyhollywood.com/
5936 W. Sunset Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA
(323) 924-2093

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